The 50 things every Sydney food lover should try

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Terry Durack's guide to the 50 must-do food experiences in Sydney.

1. Large sourdough boule from Iggy's Down Under

Igor and Ludmilla Ivanovic's chewy, crusty, dense, naturally leavened sourdough is a thing of beauty and integrity. Since the Ivanovics arrived in Sydney from Massachusetts, their gigantic boules ($18), skinny ficelles and steamed bagels have become so popular that not only do customers brave long queues at the bakery, restaurants also have to wait in line and prove themselves worthy. 49 Belgrave Street, Bronte. Phone: 9369 1650. iggysbread.com

2. Mrs Jang's home-style fried eggs from Billy Kwong
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These are not your normal fried eggs. Cooked throughout Kylie Kwong's childhood by Mrs Jang, her uncle Jimmy's mother, they have been on the Billy Kwong menu since day one. The eggs are deep-fried to produce crunchy puffs of golden-brown whites, then shallow-fried for extra crispness and creamy, runny bright-yellow yolks, before being doused in spring onions, fresh chillies and oyster sauce ($19). Kwong says it's all about texture, texture, texture. We have to agree. 3/355 Crown Street, Surry Hills. Phone: 9332 3300. kyliekwong.org

3. Amedei 70 per cent dark chocolate gelato from Pompei's Gelateria

Some people have no idea that there is a beach at Bondi. They come to this corner gelateria/pizzeria only for the Ferrero Rocher gelato, for the pretty green pistachio gelato made from sweet, creamy Sicilian nuts or, for the purist, dairy-free white nectarine sorbetto. But it's the Amedei 70 per cent dark chocolate gelato that gets most votes, for being the deepest, darkest, freshest, chocolatiest gelato in town. Eat in ($6.20) or take it to the beach ($4.50). Yes, there really is a beach. Cnr Roscoe and Gould streets, Bondi Beach. Phone: 9365 1233.

4. Wagyu burger and Martinez cocktail at Rockpool Bar & Grill

Every great bar has its perfect order. Here, it's the wagyu burger and a Martinez, the not-so-dry precursor to the dry martini. Settle into a dark leather chair in the lovely dimly lit bar – you'll need a candle to scan the menu – and hit on David Blackmore's full-blood wagyu burger with Schulz house-smoked bacon, gruyère cheese, Zuni pickle (zucchini and red onion) and relish ($22). Match it with the Martinez ($19), made of sweet vermouth, Tanqueray gin, bitters and a splash of maraschino. 66 Hunter Street, city. Phone: 8078 1900. rockpool.com.au

5. Pippies in XO sauce from Golden Century

This is a great Sydney experience, from the buzz of eating among 600 hungry diners to the feature wall of tanks holding fish, mud crab and abalone and the fast wok-frying that captures the freshness and intensity of flavour. Don't expect lots of bowing and scraping from the staff but do expect your creamy-shelled, wedgeshaped pippies (Donax deltoides) to be rich, meaty and tossed in home-made XO sauce fragrant with dried shrimp, dried scallop, garlic and ginger ($73 a kilogram, enough for six). 393 Sussex Street, city. Phone: 9212 3901. goldencentury.com.au

6. Guava snow egg from Quay

If you didn't know by now that Peter Gilmore's achingly beautiful dessert consisted of a snow-white poached meringue egg filled with a yolk of custard-apple ice-cream, coated in crunchy golden maltose shell and served on a bed of strawberry guava granita and guava fool, then check your pulse. Since its dramatic appearance on this year's MasterChef Australia final, this star-isborn dessert (part of the two-course $75 lunch menu) is more well known – and far more beautiful – than Matt Preston, Gary Mehigan and George Calombaris. Upper Level, Overseas Passengers Terminal, Circular Quay West. Phone: 9251 5600. quay.com.au

7. Chocolate éclair from Black Star Pastry

Pastry chef Christopher Thé (formerly of Claude's restaurant) turns out some exquisite creations in a shop/cafe no bigger than a cupcake. His classic chouxpastry éclair is filled with dreamy chocolate crème patisserie and topped with a darkly bitter-sweet chocolate glaze finished with a whitechocolate signature that tells it like it is: it's a star. It's light but crazily rich, fresh but fancy. Eat it there with a Little Marionette coffee or give it a good home – $4.50 either way. 277 Australia Street, Newtown. Phone: 9557 8656.

8. Macarons from Adriano Zumbo Patisserie

Before Balmain patissier Adriano Zumbo and MasterChef came along, the macaron was just a delightfully fragile domeshaped meringue made of little more than egg whites, sugar and almond meal, crisp to the bite and lusciously chewy inside. Now it's a phenomenon, in evermore- dazzling flavours such as beetroot and raspberry, caramelised hummus, passionfruit and yoghurt, and pumpkin orange risotto ($2 each). Join the queue. 296 Darling Street, Balmain. Phone: 9810 7318. adrianozumbo.com

9. Platter of Robert Marchetti's warm mortadella from North Bondi Italian Food

Why the fuss about some sliced cold meat? Because it's made in NSW from the back leg of free-range, slowgrowing black Berkshire pigs, studded with matured pork fat, imbued with traditional sweet-smelling spices and cured the old-school way by Enzo Vecchiet near Lismore. Chef Robert Marchetti of North Bondi Italian sends it out just baby-milk warm, so that it melts against the tongue. 118 Ramsgate Avenue, North Bondi. Phone: 9300 4400. idrb.com

10. School prawns from De Costi

Also known as harbour prawns or river prawns, these small, sweet crustaceans are found in estuarine and coastal waters all along the east coast of Australia. They might be tiny but they taste sweeter than much larger varieties and are best scoffed whole – heads, shells, the lot – whether eaten cold with lemon mayo or pan-fried with sea salt and served with lemon. Although available all year round, they are at their best between October and April (about $15 a kilogram). Sydney Fish Market, Blackwattle Bay, Pyrmont. Phone: 9692 9188. decosti.com.au

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11. Johnny's Love Bites from Fratelli Fresh

Meet the city's sweetest, juiciest tomatoes. Grown in south-west Sydney, they are, remarkably, available all year, although size, sweetness and variety vary according to season ($5.95 for 400 grams). 7 Danks Street, Waterloo (also at Potts Point and Walsh Bay). Phone: 9699 3174. fratellifresh.com.au

12. The Lucio from Lucio Pizzeria

Lucio de Falco turns out Sydney's finest Neapolitanstyle pizza from a hand-built wood-fired oven. They're all good but the Lucio – half margherita (tomato, mozzarella, basil) and half folded-over calzone filled with ricotta, mozzarella and ham ($18) – is great when you can't decide. 248 Palmer Street, Darlinghurst. Phone: 9332 3766.

13. Sashimi and sushi from Yoshii

Nagasaki-born Ryuichi Yoshii presents his skilfully wrought, delicate sushi and sashimi as part of a kaiseki smallplate menu ($48 lunch/$115 dinner). Sit at the black marble bar to watch a true sushi master at work. 115 Harrington Street, city. Phone: 9247 2566. yoshii.com.au

14. Sweet-corn fritters with roast tomatoes, spinach and bacon from Bills

Now that every cafe in Sydney can do good scrambled eggs, the focus has shifted to the next best thing at Bills: the crunchy, nubbly golden corn fritters, stacked high with sweetly acidic tomatoes, baby spinach and salty bacon ($18.50). Other cafes: please copy. 433 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst. Phone: 9360 9631. bills.com.au

15. 'Nduja salami from Pino's Dolce Vita

Seventh-generation butcher Pino Tomini Foresti and his family take Bangalow Sweet Pork and transform it into a soft, spreadable, spicy sausage the Calabrians call 'nduja (pronounced endooya), meaning nude. Warm lightly and spoon onto bread ($50 a kilogram). Shop 10, 45 President Avenue, Kogarah. Phone: 9587 4818. pinosdolcevita.com.au

16. Thali of the day from Nilgiri's

It could be peppery masala beef or a comforting dhal makani but whatever Ajoy Joshi sends out on your thali, it will be fresh, rich and vibrant – and will come with rice, naan and poppadums for a silly $13. 81 Christie Street, St Leonards. Phone: 9966 0636. nilgiris.com.au

17. Fresh local truffles from The Sydney Morning Herald Growers' Market

Col and Sue Roberts were among the first in NSW to turn their property over to truffle cultivation. With the help of their dogs, Morris and Sully, they now supply top chefs and sell from the growers' market in Pyrmont in season (June, July and August). Pyrmont Park, Pyrmont, first Saturday of every month. lowesmounttruffles.com.au

18. Eastern rock lobster from Christie's Seafoods

Sydney's “local” lobster runs from the Queensland/NSW border down to Bass Strait. While western rock lobsters from WA are cheaper, the eastern variety is sweeter, with a more distinct flavour. Sydney Fish Market, Blackwattle Bay, Pyrmont. Phone: 9552 3333. christiesseafoods.com

19. Fish and chips from Fish Face

The best fish and chips are those eaten on the beach, no question. But the best fish and chips – as in freshest flathead, lightest VB batter, best handcut, double-cooked chips – are inland at Steve Hodges's hole-in-the-wall fish caff, piled into a waxed paper-lined cone on a vertical stand ($35). 132 Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst. Phone: 9332 4803.

20. Single Origin Coffee

The one, true, real coffee will always be espresso, made from carefully sourced, intuitively roasted, sharply ground single-origin beans on a clean machine by a skilful, focused barista. Enter the supremos, Single Origin Roasters, and their life-saving espresso, ristretto and caffe latte (from $3). 60-64 Reservoir Street, Surry Hills. Phone: 9211 0665. singleorigin.com.au

21. Hiramasa kingfish jalapeño from Saké

The pin-up fish of the moment, hiramasa kingfish gets a Nobu-like makeover from chef Shaun Presland at this glam Rocks-side Japanese. Fashionably thin sashimi is topped with jalapeño chilli and touched with citrusy yuzu soy for brightness and kick ($20). 12 Argyle Street, The Rocks. Phone: 9259 5656. sakerestaurant.com.au

22. Chicken schnitzel sandwich from Malibu

Marc Aebi and Marcella Nelson-Aebi make Sydney's best and biggest sandwiches. Open wide – very wide – for their crusty, golden chicken schnitzel sandwich stacked with rocket, avocado, mayo, tomato and Swiss cheese between doorstopper-thick slices of bread ($14). Shop 1, 62 Foster Street, Surry Hills. Phone: 9280 2233.

23. Breakfast on the Bridge

Last year, 6000 lucky people enjoyed a BYO picnic breakfast on a grass-covered Sydney Harbour Bridge – lucky, because 45,000 registered for a chance to be in it. Even if you miss out this year (October 10), you can still see the spectacle from vantage points around the harbour. Crave Sydney International Food Festival. cravesydneyfoodfestival.com.au

24. Italian pork and fennel sausages from AC Butchery

Carlo Colaiacomo's version of Tuscany's famous salsicce is the Sydney sausage of choice ($18 a kilogram), whether on the barbie, in a sandwich or with pasta. 174 Marion Street, Leichhardt. Phone: 9569 8687.

25. Spit-roasted chicken from Victor Churchill

The golden-skinned Lilydale free-range chickens ($22), basting themselves on the French Labesse Giraudon rotisserie in this elegant modern butchery smell so good that owner Anthony Puharich has rigged up a system to pipe the aroma through to the street. Smart move. 132 Queen Street, Woollahra. Phone: 9328 0402. victorchurchill.com.au

26. Sydney rock oysters from Catalina

It's Sydney on a stick: sitting on a cool curve of terrace overlooking Rose Bay and knocking back freshly opened Sydney rock oysters with chilli lime and tobiko ($4.50 each) as pelicans and seaplanes wheel in and out. Lyne Park, Rose Bay. Phone: 9371 0555. catalinarosebay.com.au

27. Twelve-hour lamb shoulder from Four In Hand Dining Room

Colin Fassnidge's refined take on nose-to-tail cookery is best represented by this heroic, fall-apart whole slow-braised lamb shoulder, served with kipfler potatoes and baby veg ($84 to share). 105 Sutherland Street, Paddington. Phone: 9362 1999. fourinhand.com.au

28. Pho dac biet from Pho Pasteur

The decor and service are basic but the special beef noodle soup ($9.50) is just that – special, with its silky rice noodles, slices of beef, tripe and translucent tendon awash in an aromatic broth. 295 Chapel Road, Bankstown (also at Haymarket and Parramatta). Phone: 9790 2900.

29. Gaytime Goes Nuts from Universal

Christine Manfield's classic take on a Golden Gaytime first surfaced in 1996. The latest incarnation ($19) goes nuts with a chocolate wafer tube layered with caramel parfait and honeycomb ice-cream, Valrhona chocolate, salted hazelnut caramel, nougat crunch and hazelnut chocolate mousse. Republic 2 Courtyard, Palmer Street, Darlinghurst. Phone: 9331 0709. universalrestaurant.com

30. The “Tiger” from Harry's Cafe de Wheels

Harry “Tiger” Edwards first opened this pie stall by the Woolloomooloo naval base in the 1930s. Today, the famous chunky beef pie with mushy peas, mash and gravy ($5.80) still draws a motley crew of film stars, tourists and hello-sailors. Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo. Phone: 9357 3074. harryscafedewheels.com.au

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31. A cold beer at sunset

Let's see, you've got Opera House, bridge and harbour in your face and a cold, fruity, malty OB Organic Pale Ale in your hand, tailor-made for the Opera Bar by Redoak Brewery from organic hops and malt, and available on tap ($7). Not too shabby, really. Opera Bar, Lower Concourse, Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point, city. Phone: 9247 1666. operabar.com.au

32. Miang kum from Sailors Thai

The heart-shaped betel leaf, the grilled Yamba prawn, shredded coconut, diced lime and crunchy peanuts, the explosive combination of hot, sweet and sour in the mouth … just brilliant ($26 for four). 106 George Street, The Rocks. Phone: 9251 2466.sailorsthai.com.au

33. Date tart from Rockpool

This rich, creamy, just-set custard tart studded with dates (part of a four-course $145 menu) has been on offer at Rockpool since 1984. Former Rockpool pastry chef Lorraine Godsmark also does a beauty at Yellow Bistro & Food Store in Potts Point. Rockpool, 106 George Street, The Rocks. Phone: 9252 1888. rockpool.com.au

34. Xiao long bao dumplings from Din Tai Fung

Half the fun is watching the white-gowned, white-masked staff make these little porkand soup-filled dumplings ($8.80 for six) in the seethrough kitchen while you wait for a table. The other half is eating them. World Square, 644 George Street, city. Phone: 9264 6010. dintaifung.com.tw/en/index.asp

35. Tonkotsu ramen from Gumshara

It's worth hanging around once you've put your order in for this seriously thick, lipsticking pork broth swimming with ramen noodles ($12) just to watch chef Mori's assured technique as he swirls broth, strains noodles and tucks in barbecue pork and soft-boiled egg at speed with utter concentration. Eating World, 25 Dixon Street, Haymarket. No phone.

36. Hainanese chicken rice from Temasek

The uninitiated may ask what is so special about a simple Malaysian dish of chicken served with a bowl of the broth in which the chicken is poached, along with a mound of rice cooked in the same broth ($12). Temasek's regulars know better. 71 George Street, Parramatta. Phone: 9633 9926.

37. Sweet Belem tarts from Sweet Belem

John de Almeida grew up in the Lisbon suburb of Belem, the spiritual home of pasteis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts). His flaky, blistery, eggy version ($3) is irresistible, especially warm from the oven, dusted with cinnamon. 35B New Canterbury Road, Petersham. Phone: 9572 6685.

38. Single-origin chocolate from Zokoko

Discover the joys of a true “bean to bar” operation at this small tasting bar/cafe at the foot of the Blue Mountains. Michelle Morgan sources microlots of single-origin cacao beans before roasting and processing them in artisan style ($9.50 for 85 grams). 3/84-90 Old Bathurst Road, Emu Heights. Phone: 4735 0666. zokoko.com.au43

39. Soya chicken from Emperor's Garden BBQ and Noodles

For the best fast food in the city, join the queue at the takeaway window for a whole lacquered soya chicken ($19.80), shivery white-cut chicken, crisp roast pork or tender char siu pork to turn into an instant meal. 213 Thomas Street, Haymarket. Phone: 9281 9899. emperorsgarden.com.au

40. Roti canai from Mamak

One of the good things (okay, the only good thing) about having to queue at this modern Malaysian Chinatown favourite is watching the chefs twirl the roti canai flatbread in the air. Served with two curry dips and spicy sambal sauce ($5), it's a treat. 15 Goulburn Street, Haymarket. Phone: 9211 1668. mamak.com.au

41. Shaved cabbage salad from Cafe Sopra

Chef Andy Bunn has the knack of taking good, fresh produce and doing very little to it – ergo, very finely shaved raw cabbage tossed with a snowstorm of grated parmigiano-reggiano and a dash of balsamic vinegar ($18). It's raw food's newest celebrity dish. 7 Danks Street, Waterloo. Phone: 9699 3174. fratellifresh.com.au

42. Confit of ocean trout with fennel salad from Tetsuya's

The most celebrated modern Australian dish of all (part of a multi-course degustation, $200 a head) can be traced back to the early '90s. Salmon wasn't available all year round, so Tetsuya's Tasmanian suppliers gave him some ocean trout to bridge the gap. The rest is history. 529 Kent Street, city. Phone: 9267 2900. tetsuyas.com

43. Caramel sauternes custard from Marque

A pre-dessert isn't normally the highlight of a $150 degustation menu but this is so smooth and creamy and lightly tangy that you feel sorry for the dessert that has to follow it. 4/5, 355 Crown Street, Surry Hills. Phone: 9332 2225. marquerestaurant.com.au

44. Eggnet with pork, prawn, peanuts, bean sprouts and sweet vinegar from Longrain

Martin Boetz's signature light and lacy eggnet stuffed with all matter of deliciousness ($28.50) shot to fame last year on MasterChef Australia as the subject of a celebritychef challenge. It didn't need the publicity. It already knew it was good. 85 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills. Phone: 9280 2888. longrain.com

45. Blue swimmer crab sandwiches from Guillaume at Bennelong

The perfect bite before the opera – or any time, really. Delicate miniature sandwiches filled with blue swimmer crab and coriander mayonnaise (part of a four-dish tapas menu in the bar only, $35). Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point, city. Phone: 9241 1999. guillaumeatbennelong.com.au

46. Speck, gorgonzola and radicchio piadina from La Piadina

Brothers Damiano and Fausto Zizioli have dedicated this little spot to parchmentthin, hot-off-the-grill piadina (Italian flatbread), filled with everything from speck and gorgonzola ($12) to Nutella. 106 Glenayr Avenue, Bondi. Phone: 9300 0160. lapiadina.com.au

47. Pork belly and kingfish skewer with tarragon salsa from Neutral Bay Bar & Dining

It was obvious from day one of Alex Kearns and his Glebe Point Diner team's opening in Neutral Bay that this clever, cubist combination of crisp belly pork and melting kingfish ($20) would be a new north shore must-eat. 132 Military Road, Neutral Bay. Phone: 9953 5853. nbbaranddining.com.au

48. Baklava from Greek Cakes by Eleni

When Greek Cypriot baker Fanos Papacharalambous and his wife, Eleni, reopened their popular cake shop in 2009 after a six-year break, they were rushed off their feet for the wonderfully sticky, flaky, nutty baklava ($3 a piece). 914 Anzac Parade, Maroubra. Phone: 9349 1800.

49. Butter-poached Murray cod, wakame, Jerusalem artichokes, roasted endive, bone marrow jus and puffed skin from Sepia

Sepia chef Martin Benn has some inside help when it comes to sourcing great produce, with top fishmonger George Costi as partner. This Murray cod is typically refined and restrained, yet quietly revolutionary ($44). Darling Park, 201 Sussex Street, city. Phone: 9283 1990. sepiarestaurant.com.au

50. Suckling pig panino from Pilu Kiosk

At the sweet little alfresco terrace cafe next to his beachside Freshwater restaurant, Giovanni Pilu tucks his signature roast suckling pig into a fresh panino ($9.50), along with sweet apple, shaved fennel, rocket and mustard mayo. Moore Road, Harbord. Phone: 9938 3331. piluatfreshwater.com.au