James Cook
"I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
Mark Cunningham
“Surfing wasn't about money back then. Surfers always lived cheaply and scraped by.”
Mark Twain
"In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing. Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards out to sea (taking a short board with him), then face the shore and wait for a particularly prodigious billow to come along; at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by like a bombshell!"
Paul Walker
"Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave."
好多冲浪板工匠(Shaper)都有几十年的工艺， 等你真正领会冲浪后， 最好是去他们那里定制手工制造的 Custom model - Support your local shaper。
对于初学者要就不是很高的， 一般批量生产的玻璃钢板，树脂板都可以。 除非你想 support local ecomony. 树脂板更经摔， 但是我个人喜欢传统的玻璃钢板。 只要别买软板都可以！
作为一个初学者，要知道自己的实力。 不要一个人去冲浪， 一定要在有人的海滩上玩！ 如果你对自己的实力没有信心， 认为浪太大， 那就不要逞强！ 要善于观察。
这里声明一下：All advice given here are WITHOUT any claims of accuracy or warranty, SURF AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
中国人玩冲浪的比较少
- 中国家长对孩子有一种放不下心的担忧，尤其是有些危险性的运动。 尅着碰着家长心疼。
- 传统教育重文轻武，对运动的重要性不放在心上。男孩尤其如此， 女孩就更不用说了。
- 冲浪有一点坏小子的名声，看上去好像游手好闲。家长不愿意孩子和这样的朋友交往。
要突破传统教育对孩子的压迫，培养Self-confidence and indepedance, Surfing is a good choice!
发表于 8-2-2011 00:34:41
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