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标题: 如何给汽车更换刹车片 [打印本页]

作者: luckyjason 时间: 2-1-2009 22:01
标题: 如何给汽车更换刹车片
When you catch a flying Frisbee, you probably pinch it between your thumb and your fingers. The pads of skin on your finger and thumb immediately stop the Frisbee from rotating.

disk brakes in automobiles work in a similar way, clamping two pads together onto either side of a spinning metal disk. Each wheel of a car has two brake pads set up to give it a squeeze when you press on the brake pedal. New pads are about as thick as Twix bar, but after 12 thousand miles or so, the pads get worn down to the stump.

When the pads get worn down, they have a cheap, built-in alarm system. A little tab of metal begins to make contact with the disk brake every time you stop, creating a high-pitched squeal. This squealing sound is your signal that it is time to replace the brake pads. If you ignore this sound, your brakes will grind through the final layers of brake pad material, and start to press steel plates against your iron disk brakes whenever you apply the brakes. You will probably keep stopping the car, but each time you stop, you will be crushing, etching, scarring, warping, marring, twisting and grinding up an expensive little clockwork of machinery that surrounds your wheels.

When you hear the squealing brakes, you have about three weeks to take care of it, or the price of repair will climb from about $200 to about $800.

Changing the pads is pretty easy, but toying with your brake system can certainly be a little unnerving.

When I changed Stacy's brake pads last summer, I took a bunch of photos to help illustrate the process. I hope these help people who are having trouble changing their brake pads, and I hope that they inspire people to try the repair themselves.

Stacy's Hyundai Elantra

First, go buy the parts. I went to Kragen and asked at the service desk for brake pads. They asked about the year, make and model of the car. They had a few price options, so I asked for the cheapest box. I think it was $35.

The box came with four brake pads, four metal shims (anti-squeal shims) and a tiny packet of lubricating powder. These four pads were what I needed to replace the brakes on the two front tires. Sometimes these four-pad boxes are called "axle packs".

This, or any operation is easier if you have access to another car, so that you can get back to the store when your car is up on jack-stands and you need to get back to the store for that odd tool I forgot to mention at the start of this article.

Once you have bought the brake pads, got the car jacked up and pulled the front wheel off, the job is 2/3rds finished.
[attach]44208[/attach] [attach]44209[/attach] [attach]44210[/attach] [attach]44211[/attach]

Here is a drawing of the brake disk.

The wheel, which consists of a rim and a tire, bolts directly to this structure.

Brake pads sit on both sides of the disk, ready to grab onto it when someone pushes on the brake.

Here is a side view.

The brake pads are usually designed to only grab in one spot on the disk. On the Hyundai, the brake pads are positioned toward the front-most spot on the disk.

A circular piston is positioned to push on one side of  the brake pads.

That piston push is remarkably powerful, so it must be strategically arranged to put steady, even pressure onto the disk.

To keep everything lined up and squeezing straight and even, the brake pads and piston are held in place by a chunky iron caliper, seen here colored orange.

The caliper holds the brake piston (cylinder) and the pads together. It also distributes the push of the cylinder to both sides of the brake pads.

When you aren't braking, the pads sit inside this contraption, almost touching the disk as the wheel turns.
The caliper and disk.
The disk in the center is not solid. It has little square holes in it to keep it lightweight and easier to keep cool.

The curved gray hose, at the upper left quadrant of this photograph, connects this brake to the master brake cylinder in the car. The hose is full of brake fluid, and that fluid pushes this brake closed.

I found it interesting that there aren't any electrical wires needed for the operation of the brakes down at the wheel.
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[attach]44217[/attach] [attach]44218[/attach] [attach]44219[/attach] [attach]44220[/attach]

If you wished to check whether the brake pads really needed replacing, you could peer through this center view port. There you could see how much brake pad remained.
These didn't appear to need replacing. It looked like there was plenty of brake pad remaining.

However, these brakes were squeaking, and I already had everything ready to go, so I replaced them anyway.

On many cars, if you remove the lower bolt, most of this big hunk will swing up and away from the disk and brake pads, making it a breeze to repair.

On the Hyundai, the top bolt is a great place to wrench onto and pivot the caliper housing out of the way.

Once the housing is out of the way, the old brake shoes will just be sitting there on both sides of the disk, ready to be plucked like a pair of ripe rusty apples. You may wish to make a mental note, or sketch or photograph of how the brake pads are aligned as they sit in the caliper housing.
[attach]44221[/attach] [attach]44222[/attach] [attach]44223[/attach] [attach]44224[/attach] [attach]44225[/attach] [attach]44226[/attach]

Swinging the caliper up and out of the way.

In this photo, you can see the hollow piston.

This would be a bad little niche for smuggling contraband, because the brakes get really hot.

The brake pads sit on both sides of the disk, and once the caliper is out of the way, they aren't locked on there.

A used shoe.

A close-up of a new shoe.

Parts of the shoe identified and color-coated.

The "soft" brake pad material isn't soft like a mattress, it is soft like a brick. This is the side that actually touches the brake disk.
[attach]44227[/attach] [attach]44228[/attach] [attach]44229[/attach] [attach]44230[/attach] [attach]44231[/attach] [attach]44232[/attach]

In this photo, you can see that the old pad had lost a few millimeters of brake material. It isn't as thick.

There was enough pad left on the old ones to last for another month or three.

"Why were they squeaking?" I wondered.

Usually this little metal inchworm thing is responsible for the squeaking. It squeaks to signal when the pads are critically thin.

The new pads in place, one on either side. This photo shows the view from underneath the car.

The pads are just sitting there, not yet fastened in place.

To finish the job, the iron caliper has to swing down and hold everything snugly in place just touching the disk.

However, the piston is in the way. The piston needs to slide back into it's little house, to give more room to the new, thicker brake pads.

I always try to push the piston back with my thumbs, but that never works.

I usually find a "C" clamp, and something flat, to squeeze the cylinder back into its hole a bit.
[attach]44233[/attach] [attach]44234[/attach] [attach]44235[/attach] [attach]44236[/attach] [attach]44237[/attach]

The piston. White circle highlight added for illustrative purposes.

I didn't have a block of wood handy, so I used the lid to a bottle of gunpowder to push evenly on the cylinder.

It only needed to be pushed back a half-inch or so.

With the cylinder out of the way, the caliper should pivot back into place.

Half way down.

Once it is down all the way, I just needed to put the lower bolt back in, and tighten the top one.

Then I bolted the wheel back on.

When I moved to the passenger side of the car, and removed that wheel, I found the source of the squeaking wheel.

The outside shim had slipped out of place, and was scraping a pair of shiny little grooves into the wheel.

I unbolted the caliper, swung it away and pulled the old brakes and shims out of there. I repeated the replacement process on this wheel, and finished with a squeak-free automobile.

And that's it!

Changing the brake pads is easy, but it might be a little scary to repair this very important system on your own.

But, as mom always said, if at first you don't succeed, lay on the horn and try to plow into something soft and cheap, like bushes or a fruit stand.
[attach]44238[/attach] [attach]44239[/attach] [attach]44240[/attach] [attach]44241[/attach] [attach]44242[/attach] [attach]44243[/attach]

作者: Espresso 时间: 2-1-2009 23:01
没有一定的经验，设备，和知识，绝对不建议只在网上学习下就个人更换刹车片。非常不负责任和危险的事。

作者: Port_1433 时间: 2-1-2009 23:24

原帖由 Espresso 于 2-1-2009 23:01 发表

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没有一定的经验，设备，和知识，绝对不建议只在网上学习下就个人更换刹车片。非常不负责任和危险的事。

绝对同意，这个是车的关键防线！

作者: 退休养老的人 时间: 2-1-2009 23:35
这个太专业了吧，还是去专营店换吧，这个钱可省不得

作者: aareon 时间: 3-1-2009 09:35
要大家都会。。那要修车的干吗？呵呵

作者: Fernando 时间: 3-1-2009 11:25
鬼佬小孩可以从小在自家车库折腾，经验多点
咱们要么别瞎弄，要么就找个熟手仔细学，刹车可不是闹着玩的

作者: luckyjason 时间: 3-1-2009 17:57
大家说的是，这个仅供参考，前提是做任何事情都要有spirit of can do，并且还要有experience of know how.

不过有些事，看似复杂危险，不过如果你掌握之后，一切按照安全要求和合理的操作步骤，其实没有想象得那么困难。

最后，如果大家不是很有把握，请不要轻易尝试。

作者: Espresso 时间: 3-1-2009 18:38
换刹车片的话，刹车碟一般是需要重新打磨的。

作者: fd68 时间: 9-3-2009 16:33
第一次还是去修理厂换为好！看这修理工换！第二次就可以自己动手了！要有自信和一定的动手能力第一次换感觉会怕怕的但真的换过之后感觉是个非常简单的事！主要是你敢走出那一步！但是换好刹车片后和刹车盘的磨合非常重要（开到无人的到方加速到40公里左右轻采刹车至车停重复十次左右）再60公里和80公里同样也是十次！这样保证万无一失！有的修理厂也不这样干！主要是费时！

作者: 7jf 时间: 10-3-2009 01:35
顶了，这个月自己换一对试试。

作者: taotao63 时间: 10-3-2009 01:42
送车厂换，顺便检查

生命是宝贵的

作者: 7jf 时间: 11-3-2009 23:57
正是因为生命宝贵，还是自己做的最放心。对于不懂的人来说，车厂放心，一旦你懂一点，去车厂看看真是心惊胆战。单单拿刹车来说，车厂拆下刹车卡钳后，没有几个用铁丝给你挂起来的，都是用那根至关性命的刹车油压管给你吊着，刹车盘取不下来就给你用大锤砸，紧固螺丝的时候没有使用扭力扳手的，更没有按照对角顺序分3个阶段拧紧的，都是一个螺丝拧到死了再装下一个螺母。有一次他们动过轮胎后回来不放心，自己又用扳手紧了一圈，发现5个螺丝里面2个抄紧，1个手都能拧松！有兴趣能力自学点技术活的话，还是把生命掌握在自己手里更好些。

作者: Espresso 时间: 12-3-2009 17:19
你找的那家mechanic有点太dodgy了点

作者: 7jf 时间: 16-3-2009 00:35
今天自己做4轮换位（wheel rotation），顺便检查了一下刹车。上次在修车厂换油时师傅说在过1-2个月刹车片就磨完啦，到今天已经1个月了。拆出来刹车片量了一下，各片还剩5-6mm，跟原厂要求的最低磨损值1.5mm还远，新片的11mm 才用了一半，估计按我的开法（经常用挡位制动，基本60的速度降到40以下才开始刹车）还有半年到一年的寿命。修车厂就是这样啦，提前给你换掉好零件，坏处的没有，就是银子的花花。。。想起以前在HURSTVILLE换过刹车片，老板说刹车盘已经不行了，我看了下厚度坚持没换，老板吓唬人说出了事故他不负责的，我说没事的你不放心可以给你签生死状。后来车又开了1年半直到卖掉刹车也很好用。

作者: mk82 时间: 31-3-2009 19:47

原帖由 luckyjason 于 3/1/2009 17:57 发表

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大家说的是，这个仅供参考，前提是做任何事情都要有spirit of can do，并且还要有experience of know how.

不过有些事，看似复杂危险，不过如果你掌握之后，一切按照安全要求和合理的操作步骤，其实没有想象得那么 ...

我就是太相信EXPERIENCE OF KNOW HOW, SPIRIT OF CAN DO, 结果把车给弄报废了. 好在是旧车.

作者: 小名 时间: 1-4-2009 18:44

原帖由 Espresso 于 3-1-2009 18:38 发表

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换刹车片的话，刹车碟一般是需要重新打磨的。

新碟片的打磨其实就是轻拖刹车，匀速行驶个几公里。就可以了。

作者: 小名 时间: 1-4-2009 18:58
技术贴，要顶。在国内换刹车碟的时候，看着那些小工我就不放心。非要自己去看着才安心。
澳洲的我不知道，至少在国内的修车小工干的都是累活脏活（在澳洲也是累活脏活吧，只是收入高些），小工智慧常常是令人大跌眼镜的。完全把他们当专业人士对待是要冒风险的。

作者: someonehappy 时间: 1-4-2009 19:41
要有兴趣的，从原理上也知道一点的话，这些东西很简单的，可以尝试操作。

如果本来没啥兴趣，也没兴趣去了解，就是为了省钱，找个例子就自己搞，就没啥意思了。

作者: 我是老人 时间: 10-4-2009 21:19
自己做wheel rotation?

非常好奇. 那些角度没有电脑帮你测.你怎么处理的? 太强了.

作者: claxton 时间: 10-4-2009 23:30
自己DIY固然是好的，但有些钱省不得，必须要花的，尤其你不是某些领域的专家或是高手

作者: wonghoi 时间: 10-4-2009 23:51
提示: 该帖被管理员或版主屏蔽

作者: 西澳电工 时间: 18-4-2009 09:07
呵呵，其实换刹车很简单的，我自己换刹车皮还有机油，很easy的。。。而且，说心里话，我在修车厂工作过，当过小工。。。那里换刹车片，还不如自己换。。。
当过修车小工。。。大修发动机等。。。
本身电子本科毕业。。。从事计算机6年，硬件2年4年C+
还会安装卫星锅。。。收42个中文电视没问题，但是唯一遗憾的，正馈锅没问题，偏馈老是对不准。。。
开车9年了，来澳洲1.5周买的车，理论考试满分，1道没错，来澳1个月内拿到的full驾照，1次路考就过。。。拿到驾照后的一周里，当教练去了（40刀/小时）。。。

其实，会了不难，难了不会，非常赞同楼主，自己DIY，其实根本没那么多可怕的。。。

作者: jacky_ren 时间: 18-4-2009 22:14
ls的人生经历很丰富啊

，比较感兴趣ls现在从事什么专业

作者: tiger-1 时间: 23-5-2009 17:21
换个轮胎啥的DIY还可以，换刹车片还是到修配厂去吧，这东西跑十万八万公里都不一定非换不可，万一弄不好就犯不上了。

作者: bobova 时间: 23-5-2009 18:15
楼主很强，图文并茂，

澳洲修车小工的水平怎么样，

我一般就刷刷墙，修修门

作者: felix100 时间: 21-6-2009 16:05
想问一下自己换，大概可以省多少钱？

作者: Espresso 时间: 21-6-2009 18:29
省几十块吧

作者: fly_cat 时间: 21-8-2009 15:02

原帖由 我是老人 于 10-4-2009 20:19 发表

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自己做wheel rotation?

非常好奇. 那些角度没有电脑帮你测.你怎么处理的? 太强了.

最近一次我换轮胎，看测轮胎平衡是在往轮毂上外胎，修车厂使用仪器测，真正往车上轮胎的时候，他们就直接上的，没有测任何东西，然后就直接开走了。所以前轮换后轮，我觉着没啥一起可测的？难道是修车厂减少工序？

作者: OZFREE001 时间: 21-8-2009 16:32
这东西还是找专业的换

作者: comets 时间: 21-8-2009 22:09
oscar的帖子，顶一下

作者: 伊宁 时间: 21-8-2009 22:09
收藏，下次我自己换，刹车片哪里有卖？不同车型，型号一样吗？

作者: flydragon132 时间: 30-11-2010 19:31
看到这个旧帖子还在主页的图片上，就进来看了。

对于男人来说，爱动手的，工具齐全的一些，细心的人，自己换个刹车片还是相对小事，没什么安全的问题。

还有楼上说的调四轮定位的。好像回帖又说是有动平衡的之类的。

我说一下，四轮定位指的是前轮（转向轮）的主销后倾，车轮外倾，和前轮前束。前两个是在汽车设计的时候前悬挂就确定了的。没法调。后一个前束，就是两个车轮在水平面投影上的夹角，可以通过调节转向器的拉杆长度来调节。这个可以后期手工调节。但是也要有辅助的工具才行。在车厂里面有设备直接可以读出两轮的夹角，如果自己非要弄的话，可以保留两车轮的前缘距离和后缘距离的数据。如果在使用中，发现车轮磨损严重，可以复测一下这两个数据。

后轮不用调，也地方调。

作者: 蓝山夜妖 时间: 1-12-2010 15:07

原帖由 fly_cat 于 21-8-2009 15:02 发表

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最近一次我换轮胎，看测轮胎平衡是在往轮毂上外胎，修车厂使用仪器测，真正往车上轮胎的时候，他们就直接上的，没有测任何东西，然后就直接开走了。所以前轮换后轮，我觉着没啥一起可测的？难道是修车厂减少工序？

他只给你作了轮胎平衡，没作定位。

作者: 蓝山夜妖 时间: 1-12-2010 15:09

原帖由伊宁于 21-8-2009 22:09 发表

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收藏，下次我自己换，刹车片哪里有卖？不同车型，型号一样吗？

supercheap之类都有卖的，我就是那里买自己换的，省不了多少钱，但是放心。
顺便说一下，别忘了买个特大号钳子，不然没法压缩活塞。

作者: chining 时间: 1-12-2010 22:48
牛差，不过这个太冒险

作者: 望月刀客 时间: 3-12-2010 06:36
很简单的，昨天刚刚换了一对刹车片，换了以后感觉车子刹车好极了

作者: carhelp 时间: 24-12-2010 22:40

原帖由 fly_cat 于 21-8-2009 15:02 发表

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最近一次我换轮胎，看测轮胎平衡是在往轮毂上外胎，修车厂使用仪器测，真正往车上轮胎的时候，他们就直接上的，没有测任何东西，然后就直接开走了。所以前轮换后轮，我觉着没啥一起可测的？难道是修车厂减少工序？

Rotation当然只要前后轮交换就可以。但通常任何换到前方的轮胎，都应做动态平衡。以确保方向盘操控的稳定。专业的修车行在做rotation时应该建议同时做前轮平衡。（一般要额外费用，但应只在10-20刀）

作者: carhelp 时间: 24-12-2010 22:48

原帖由 flydragon132 于 30-11-2010 19:31 发表

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看到这个旧帖子还在主页的图片上，就进来看了。

对于男人来说，爱动手的，工具齐全的一些，细心的人，自己换个刹车片还是相对小事，没什么安全的问题。

还有楼上说的调四轮定位的。好像回帖又说是有动平衡的 ...

视车型而定。有的车的chamber和caster是可调的。现在所说的只是前轮定位。当前后轮都调校，才可称四轮定位。有的车的后轮也是可调的。

作者: phome 时间: 7-1-2011 05:28
俺刚刚还在GOOGLE TRANSLATE
wheel alignment 四轮定位
Four-wheel swap 轮胎互换
Rotate and Balance动平衡
一般来说，只要不是需要将轮胎装上轮圈（换新胎，补胎）是不需要做动平衡的（轮胎异常磨损时视情）
如果车辆行驶中或刹车时跑偏及前轮不对称磨损，需要做四轮定位。
如果只是轮胎互换，一般不需要做以上两项。

我这也是班门弄X，各位DX见笑了。

有一点不明白，LZ的DEALER为么没见车就要你做Wheel alignment , Rotate and Balance?

作者: phome 时间: 7-1-2011 05:57
跟错贴了，LZ还是很强的。一般而言，去厂，看着弄就行了。

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